
When finishing my wallhanging what type of binding should I use?


I use a straight binding for wallhangings and bias binding for a larger size quilt.
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I'm new to Hawaiian quilting what size quilt should I start with?


You should always start with a cushion design nothing smaller than a 18" x 18". Many people like to start with pin cushions and even pot holders but those are smaller designs and come under the category of Minature quilts and believe it or not they are more difficult to make. Start with a cushion, the size is perfect but not too overwhelming. After you finish your first piece you can say, Wow! that was great I really want to make another one or you might say, did it, done it but never again.
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Is it ok to use basting glue to tack the applique design to the back fabric?


For a beginner quilter I suggest to sew baste your top applique piece to its backing fabric. Learn the basics, become proficient in all aspects of the sewing from cutting, basting, applique than quilting. When you become comfortable and confident with your work then use the basting glue. I have some quilters who use the basting glue and they prefer it. Other quilters like to sew baste their quilt and so do I. It'a a matter of preference.
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Is there category names for the different types of Hawaiian quilts, i.e. historical, traditional etc.?


I never heard the term historical but if you're thinking of antique quilts they could be put in the same category.
Traditional in a sense that during special periods of quilting many of the quilts were similar in type of fabric, colors, thread and designs.....and like language Hawaiian quilting has evolved with the introducing of better fabric, thread and ideas.
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What is the feeling of non-Hawaiians reproducing historical Hawaiian quilts?


You need to define historical Hawaiian quilts. First of all you must understand that "quilting" is not Hawaiian. It was taught by the missionaries as a domestic duty to the native Hawaiian Women. The Missionaries wanted to teach the Hawaiian women their "Christian lifestyle" and that included having the "women" clean, cook, housekeeping and sewing.
The women originally learned how to sew "Mu'u Mu'u" clothing to cover themselves and then later to make "Scrap Quilts". The Hawaiian women disliked sewing blocks together and so adapted their own Hawaiian tapa designs into quilting designs using a 1/8 fold. They used a one large fabric, folded into a 1/8 fold, cut it out in one piece.
As for non-Hawaiians making Hawaiian quilts. The designs make the quilts Hawaiian not the person sewing it BUT there is some historical, cultural value lost when the person making the quilt does not fully understand the historical richness in making the quilt. Philippines and China made quilts are Hawaiian quilts but the quality of the fabric and especially the sewing degrades the cultural value as well as the physical value, also with many people working on one quilt all the stitches are different further decreasing the value of the quilt.
Unfortunately many of the foreign made quilts are using our historical designs and they are claiming it as their own. One only needs to research and see that those designs are not theirs. I believe if you are going to make quilts for commercial purposes MAKE YOUR OWN DESIGNS. Hawaiian artistic works are not for Sale
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What pattern do you suggest for a baby quilt?


Unless you're making a quilt for a newborn to use daily any pattern using bright colors is suggested. Many people choose dolphins, turtles for boys and florals for girls BUT I always tell my quilters to make the quilt for the Adult Child. A quilt that child will grow into. Pick a design that expresses your hopes for the child. For example, for the adult boy choose a strong design of spears and Hawaiian helmets meaning strengh and courage for the adult girls choose a plumeria design which means friendship or a Taro design which means family. When the child becomes an adult then can he/she can choose to hang the quilt on the wall as a remembrance of your hopes and dreams for their future.
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Cotton or Blends, What type of fabric should I use?


It's all a matter of preference. I use a poly/cotton blend because that's what my mother uses. It's color fast, the shrinkage is minimal and the colors last longer through the years than the 100% cotton fabric....BUT....cotton has such a wonderful ease and smoothness when sewing, it feels good in your hands but with most cotton Fabrics Pre-washing is highly recommended.
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After my quilt is completely basted where do I begin my applique?


If your whole quilt is basted down you can actually begin your applique anywhere.
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What type of batting do you use for quilting?


I use a 5 oz. polyester batting. When the batting is thicker the contours on the quilt become more pronounced. I advise quilters not use anything lighter than a 3 oz batting and thicker than a 8 oz batting. If you would like a more antique look to your quilt a cotton batting is perfect, the quilt is more flat then puffy.
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Is it true that your first quilt should be an Ulu/Breadfruit design?


No, the first quilt you make should be a design that you like and admire. I'm not sure where the Ulu first quilt design tradition started but I always tell the students to work on a design they like, use colors they admire and then they have more motivation to finish the quilt.
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I heard that you do not allow any tracing pencils in your quilting classes?


Yes, no tracing pencils are allowed in our quilting classes. The quilters learn how to quilt using their fingers to space out their quilting lines. The quilts stay clean from any type of pencil or pen markings. Why do I teach without pencils? Because that is the way I was taught how to quilt. I don't know how to use tracing pencils.
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Why are so many quilts in your quilt exhibition made in Japan, are they still considered Hawaiian quilts?


Its amazing, the number one question at the quilt show was why a majority of the quilts were from Japan and can you still consider them Hawaiian Quilts. A Hawaiian Quilt made in Asia, Europe, Australia, Russia, South America, Canada etc is still a Hawaiian Quilt. It is not where the quilt was made but the style of the quilt. By using the 1/8 design, cutting out the design using one whole piece and using the echo quilting style is what makes the quilt Hawaiian. Hawaiian Quilts today are being made all over the world and I thank everyone who is continuing this art in their part of the world. That is how our culture and art is shared. I especially wan to thank all of our quilters from Japan. They have come to love the style of Hawaiian quilting and I am forever grateful that they are continuing a wonderful tradition. I applaud them for being the great people they are.
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Is there a Hawaiian Quilt Design for a Wedding?


This is one of the most ask questions that I receive. I don't believe there is a commercial Hawaiian quilt pattern that was designed for a wedding and personally I don't believe that you should give a Hawaiian quilt as a wedding gift. If you want to give a quilt to your daughter or son for their wedding give it to them but not to both spouses. Here's my explanation I've seen many people give quilts as wedding gifts and then watched the awful divorce that happens, and then watch two people claim the quilt. Give your quilt to the individual person but not as a wedding gift, maybe a birthday but GIVE it to the owner whom you wish to receive it, so if there is any problems, there is no question on who owns the quilt. Also, make the design reflect the person, their individual desires or personality. That is the Hawaiian way of making the quilt. To reflect the individual not necessary the occasion.
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Why don't you have all Hawaiian quilting web sites listed on your web page?


Many people have asked why I don't have certain Hawaiian quilt website links on my webpage and the answer is fairly simple. I'm my parents daughter. In other words I was raised Hawaiian. My culture is part of my make-up. It is who I am, what I am and it will influence who I will be tomorrow. Being Hawaiian I cherish everything that makes it unique and Hawaiian quilting is part of that uniqueness. I cannot honestly promote any website that sells foreign made quilts. While these companies are making their fast buck they're threatening the very essence of a beautiful art. They lack the knowledge of Hawaiian quilting, the passion of Hawaiian quilting and especially the love of making and or receiving a quilt made for love, and given with love. I cannot promote quilts made in sweat-shop style factories or villages. I also will not promote any website that does not give the names of its owners. So if your favorite site is not listed on my webpage you can conclude they are promoting foreign made quilts or afraid to name the owner of their companies.
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Why is it frowned upon to admire someone else's design, then use it as a starting point for your own design?


The reason for not taking other designs is that you do not know the intent that the original designer had when they designed it. You need to remember the Hawaiians were very spiritual and religious. For Example, my father framed a Hawaiian quilted wall hanging for an old time quilter of ours. When we delivered the wall hanging she invited us in to show us another quilt that she had been working on for the last 3 years. She said that she did not complete the quilt because her husband became very ill and died. The quilt she showed us was very beautiful. In fact it was one of the most beautiful designs I had ever seen. I asked her the name of the design. She explained that she copied the design from the Waianae library collection and the name of the quilt was Kamakani Kaili Aloha. When my father and I heard the name we looked at each other in surprise. After we left I asked my father, "Did you hear what the name of the quilt was?" He replied, "That is why we design our own quilts." The meaning of the quilt is "The wind that took my loved one from me". We knew of this quilt previously, and it was designed by a women for her husband who had died. Knowing the meaning, would you do a quilt like that?
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If copying a Hawaiian quilt design is frowned upon, why do people sell Hawaiian quilt patterns? Isn't the purchaser of the pattern copying the design?


The tradition of designs goes back even before the foreigners came to Hawaii. The Hawaiian people lived in villages and clans. Every clan and family had their own design that represented that particular family. To wear another persons design meant death in some parts of the islands. The designs represented their genealogy. If you are not of that genealogy you do not wear that design. The reason we do have designs for sale are for people who are unable to make their own designs but love to quilt. We start our classes with a commercial design then teach about how the Hawaiians made their own designs. Some students go further and design their own quilts based upon what they learn at the classes. As for changing original designs to make your own that was considered stealing and always frowned upon. Actually when the Hawaiians did take other peoples designs it was done to spite the other person. You can use other peoples design with their permission.
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Should you always quilt the outline of the pattern or quilt in the ditch before quilting the design?


There is no right or wrong answer to this question. We here at Poakalani's teach our students to quilt all of the pattern before quilting the outline of the quilt or what is called quilting in the ditch. If you quilt the outline of the pattern first you have caught batting inside of the design. If the batting is uneven it will show and pucker on your quilt. If you quilt your pattern first and then outline or quilt in the ditch you can slowly push the batting out to the edges.
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How far apart should my spacing be on my echo quilting?


Hawaiians did not use rulers when they quilted. They used their fingers as measurements. Your quilting lines should be no smaller than the width of your baby finger and not bigger than the width of your index finger.
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Is it true that traditionally the Hawaiians used only white quilting thread?


That is the only color quilting thread they had. I believe if the Hawaiians back then had more of a selection of material and threads they would have used it. Look how far Hawaiian quilting has come today all because of a wider selection of materials. I do believe that if the first merchants came with a sewing machine Hawaiian quilting would have gone in a different direction.
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Is it bad luck to make a Hawaiian quilt with more than two colors?


I have heard this question many times. I don't know where this superstition started or why. My greatgrandmother made a quilt over 80 years ago with three different colors apparently she didn't believe in that superstition either. I do believe that if you make a quilt with love and give it with love, nothing can come from it but love
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Did Hawaiians traditionally make their quilts with only two colors


It's really funny when you look at how traditions start. Tradition is just an action, or act done consistently over a long period of time. Like the Hawaiian quilts, many traditions started out of necessity. For example, using only two colors. You must remember Hawaiians did not have material like we have today. The material they used back then was called Tapa, a paper like material made from the bark of the Wauke. When material did come to the islands it was very limited in colors and selections. Thus, the tradition of using only two colors on a quilt usually consisting of red, green, yellow on an offwhite used for a backing. The offwhite material was usually a sheet!
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How much does a full size Hawaiian quilt cost?


A Hawaiian quilt, made in Hawaii with an original design that no one else has, can range in price from $4,500 to $10,000. Quilts made in the Philippines, China or Taiwan with Hawaiian motifs range in price from $800 to $2,000. I prefer to call these blankets.
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How long does it take to make a quilt?


It depends on you and how motivated you are to complete the quilt. One of our quilters completed her quilt in three months. Another brought in a quilt that her grandmother never completed. You could say that quilt took 75 years to complete. The Father Damien Quilt which my mother and I completed took three weeks.
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What is Hawaiian Quilting?


Everyone must remember quilting is not Hawaiian. The Hawaiian women were taught to quilt in 1820 when the first group of missionaries came to the islands. These missionary women taught the Hawaiian women patchwork style quilting. The Hawaiian women adapted quilting to their own style by cutting out their designs using only one piece of fabric. Most of the designs were cut on a 1/8 fold. Their quilting style was mostly echo quilting which is similar to the ripples of the waves in a pond. Their designs depicted their natural Hawaiian foliage, their culture and heritage. Quilting techniques are basically the same all over the world but every state, country and culture adds a little of their own surroundings and heritage to make it unique to their home just as the Hawaiians did.
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